So You’ve Died in Japan: Your Guide to the Afterlife
So, you’ve died in Japan. Let me help you navigate the underworld and if we can, avoid the nastiest hells.
Hey hey, this is Thersa Matsuura, author of The Book of Japanese Folklore and coming-this-fall (2025) the Yokai Oracle Deck which you can preorder if you’d like. And I’m here to share with you all those hidden, fascinating, and sometimes frightening corners of old Japan. Come with me as I explore strange superstitions, creepy creatures and cultural curiosities right here on Uncanny Japan.
(CM)
So you’ve died in Japan — probably from the heat — what happens next? No, not for your family or the tour group who has to deal with the wake, the funeral, and coming up with a relevant and moving eulogy, but for you personally. The deceased.
Now if you’ve ever visited or lived in Japan, you won’t be surprised that there’s going to be quite a bit of pre-hell bureaucracy. Or pre-heaven bureaucracy Or even better, pre-next life bureaucracy — we’ll figure out your final destination a little later.
Being newly deceased here isn’t as simple as floating out of your body to be greeted by great granny Ethel and your hamster Sparky.
Or depending on your faith…finding yourself knee-deep in clouds outside a set of pearly gates looking up at St. Peter.
Or swimming through a light tunnel of peace and love on your way back to becoming one with everything.
Or sticking around as a ghost with unfinished business, free to toss around dinnerware, possess random people, and sneak into photographs.
Or, you know, just blinking out of existence all together.
No. It’s not that easy. According to centuries of Buddhist tradition in Japan, death is the beginning of something like the most nerve wracking job interview you’ve ever had. That believe me, you’re probably not prepared for. So I’m here to help. Just in case.
After lights out, buckle up because you’re going on a 49-day harrowing journey through the underworld. That final 49th day is called shijūkunichi (四十九日), literally 49 days, and a big memorial service (called hōyō 法要) will be held in your honor up here on earth on that day. Shijūkunichi is a huge deal in Japan. For one, this is the day when your ultimate fate will finally be decided (Is it Heaven? Or is it Hell? Will you be reborn a sea monkey or a hungry ghost?). Not that your friends and family will know, although they might have a pretty good idea. This day also ends the initial mourning period for your loved ones.
Oh! Sometimes the big day is called, shichishichinichi (七七日) seven seven days or the equally fun to say nanananoka. Those both have the same meaning, just a different pronunciations. Shichishichinichi and nananananoka (seven seven days) because seven times seven is 49.
Keep in mind that while you’re undertaking this perilous adventure in the afterlife, your loved ones will be helping you in the world-of-the-living by every seven days holding small memorial services as a way to help guide and support your soul.
So what happens?
Well, after that last breath, there will be a sense of confusion, a feeling of being unmoored. You’ll see those grieving you but most likely won’t be able to communicate. You are a spirit now.
For the first seven days you just wander around. You visit your home, places you love, people you love. Certain Buddhist deities show up and will guide you, but there will also be malevolent spirits hanging around and up to no good, trying to lead you astray. But hang tight. It’s day seven and your family’s first memorial service will set you back on the right path.
But even with their help you can’t escape the horrific duo Gozu and Mezu. While some believe you might just float your ethereal way all by yourself to the banks of the Sanzu no Kawa, a vast grey river that separates kono yo (this world of the living) and ano yo (that world, of the dead). Most mythology states that the first real creatures you’ll meet after death are a pair of brutes named Gozu and Mezu. They resemble their names.
Gozu (ox headed demon) and Mezu (horse headed demon) are two oni who are massive, well muscled, and downright vicious. They are the guardians of the underworld and they work for the King of Hell — you’ll meet him a little later.
Yes, you will because this isn’t a mamby-pamby, innocent until proven guilty, lets all be chums and cherubs, welcome to the afterlife. It’s a little, shall we say, rough for awhile. You have to prove your worth a better life. So Gozu and Mezu will find you at the start of week two and “escort” and by escort I meant drag you to that river bank kicking and screaming by your hair.
Keep in mind, these two barbarians, when they aren’t bounty hunting fresh souls, are enjoying their time in the depths of hell torturing those who weren’t fortunate enough to end up in a better place. The rest of your 49 days is finding out what next life you qualify for.
Just to set the scene: think every shade of gray and gloom, a wide and desolate, rocky river bank that stretches out in all directions. As you’re being pulled along, you manage to glimpse up ahead a massive tree all gnarled and twisted.
Gozu and Mezu toss your puny butt unceremoniously in front of a wretched old couple squatting under that stark, contorted tree that is utterly devoid of life. The tree has a name — Eryōju (衣領樹) and those ghostly-looking wisps you see blowing from the branches aren’t leaves. We’ll meet Eryōji again in a second.
Gozu and Mezu introduce you to the miserable couple: Datsueba (奪衣婆)and Keneō (懸衣翁). And they, too, are truly dreadful. All skin and bones, wild angry eyes, and bad attitude. In some versions they have pointy teeth or even fangs.
Right about here, I imagine Gozu or Mezu leans down and gives you a knowing wink before they bound off, saying something like “See you later!” and chuckling as they disappear into the mists. You know, because their other gig is making those souls dwelling in hell miserable for eternity and maybe they have a sense of humor or maybe they don’t have a lot of faith you’ll pass the upcoming judgements and wind up on the end of one their spears.
So there you are standing on the shore of the Sanzu no Kawa — meaning The River of Three Crossings. Let’s leave Datsueba and Keneo there glaring at us like they are for a minute and get into this river briefly. At first you’d be correct in thinking that the Sanzu no Kawa is basically the same as the River Styx in Greek mythology. And you’d be almost correct.
They are both liminal rivers that separate the land of the living from the land of the dead. And souls must cross them to continue their journey in the afterlife.
But where the River Styx is kind of like a grim toll booth, the Sanzu River is a fairly terrifying karmic audit. What we know about the River Styx is that you pay a coin to Charon (care-on), a silent and spooky ferryman, to take you across. If you don’t pay, you don’t ride. This is why coins are placed in the mouth of the deceased, or one coin on each eye.
The Sanzu River also has a fee to cross. It’s six coins called Rokumonsen. And to this day it’s steadfastly observed. Traditionally, actual coins were placed in a pilgrim’s pouch and hung around the neck of the dead, or put in their hand, or just placed near their head or chest for easy access.
These days, however, because almost 100% of people are cremated, and metal can’t go into the crematorium, a slip of paper with six mon coins printed on it is used instead. This is called Meisen or underworld money and it’s lovingly put somewhere the beloved one can find it easily.
Can I just tell you the coolest thing I have ever learned about these six coins, the rokumonsen? You know how families in Japan have family crests, right? Well, back in the Sengoku Era, the Warring States, the Sanada family — who were incredible samurai — chose the rokumonsen as theirs.
The reason is pure brilliance. Imagine you’re about to go into a big battle with this Sanada Clan and the entire army shows up with their six coins proudly displayed on their flags and their kabuto helmets. The message is clear. We’re not afraid of death. In fact, we’re ready for it. They’re literally carrying their funeral money into battle. A kind of no retreat, no surrender. Only victory or a glorious death. I’ve read that it indeed did scare the bejeezus out of their enemy.
So if you ever see a Japanese family crest that looks like a line of three coins on top of another line of three coins, you know that is the rokumonsen and that is the Sanada clan. And you might not want to mess with them.
Okay, we’re talking about the difference between the River Styx and the River Sanzu. The big difference is with the River Styx everyone (if they can pay) crosses the same way, slow ferry, creepy guy in robes. Your judgement happens after you cross.
With the Sanzu (three crossings) River, you pass one of three ways, depending on your sins. And that’s determined by the scary-looking couple who are still standing there glaring at us. Just for the record, Datsueba means (old woman who strips clothes) and Keneō means (old man who hangs clothes). I’ll let you guess what their special jobs are.
They’re here to do your preliminary screening. Datsueba will first rip off your burial kimono. Now on one hand, clothes can symbolize your attachments to earthly possessions and this is a kind of preparation of the soul for what comes next. But the usual story is the outfit someone is buried in is believed to absorb their karma. Every bad thing done while alive adds weight to the cloth.
So now your standing their stark naked and oh look! Here comes Keneō who takes your garments and hangs them on the tree called Eryōju (衣領樹) or Clothing Collar Tree. The more sins you committed while living, the heavier the cloth, the more the branches bend.
A nice morbid detail: When I first learned about Datsueba and Keneō, and this is found in much older texts, it wasn’t your clothes they stripped you of, it was your skin. Even these days, it’s said if you are buried with no clothing, Datsueba will flay, because skin holds sin, too, I guess. So there’s a hellish visual for you. Never die skinny dipping.
Now, if the branch hardly moves at all and you were a righteous dude or dude-ess, Datsueba will allow you to take the bridge across the river. This is a beautiful bridge, in fact, decorated with the Seven Treasures (gold, silver, lapis lazuli, crystal, agate, coral and pearl). It’s a pleasant, safe, and quick crossing. Lucky you.
If you were like medium bad/medium good. And this is the majority of people. She’ll show you to a shallow crossing of the river. This is about knee deep, but not easy. You’re dealing with a very fast current, cold water, and you have to tread over slimy stones. Whatever you do, don’t slip and fall.
Now, if a person — certainly not you — is truly wicked — the murderers, thieves, autocrats, dictators, tyrants, warmongers, kleptocrats, oppressors, environmental destroyers, you see what I’m doing here, the profoundly selfish, heartless, and cruel — well, they will cause the branch to bend low and just like that the entire river transforms into a raging, violent torrent of icy dark water that they are forced to swim across.
But this is the least of their worries. The water is also infested with gigantic underwater serpents called daija and various demons that lurk below the surface. These all take turns attacking the sinner, biting and tearing and tormenting them as the soul flails helplessly to get to the other side.
Wew. So you’ve made it to the far bank. What’s next? Here come the trials. For the next several weeks you will have to travel something called the meido (冥途) or Dark Path or Land of Gloom. It’s treacherous and shadowy, but it’s not hell, not yet. And at the end of each week (day 14, 21, 28, etc.) you will come and stand before a different King of Hell. There are ten kings of hell. And they are called Jūō or Ten Kings.
Keep in mind that your family in the living world is preparing for and conducting the small memorial services. These are crucial as these prayers can influence a kings’ decision and ease your journey.
If you pause for a moment and do the math. 49 days, ten kings, one week already used up…the math doesn’t add up.
Actually, you’ll only face seven of them. That’s still a lot. And each one will review and judge your life’s karma. Let me just list them so you know, starting on Day 7 (the day you crossed the Sanzu River). There’s Shinkō-O, shokō-O, Sōtei-O, Gokan-O, Enma Daio (he’s the main one with Gozu and Mezu at his beck and call), then comes Henjō-O, and lastly, Taizan-O.
King Taizan will then render the official verdict of your soul.
You will be sentenced to be reborn in one of the six realms. I’ve mentioned in another episode, but remember how you always see six ojizo statues lined up outside temples or along mountain paths. There is one ojizo for each of the realms. And the realms are:
#1 Tendō or the realm of heavenly beings. This is a realm of immense pleasure and bliss. You’re beautiful and powerful, too. But there’s a catch. You’re still on the cycle of death and rebirth, so you’ll only stay here until your good karma wears out, then back to the lower realms for you.
Next is nindō. This is our world. Humans. People. This is actually considered the best of the six if you have to be born into one of the realms, and that’s because from here you have enough suffering to motivate you to seek enlightenment. Up there in the heavenly realm, it’s rumored (I wouldn’t know) that you get kinda blissed out and don’t really do anything to better your position.
#3 is shuradō. Or the realm of asura, or demigods. Here you’ll become a cool warrior-like being, but while that sounds fun and all, you’ll be consumed with jealousy and anger and your life will be one of constant struggle and paranoia. People who spent their human lives driven by ego, aggression and ambition without virtue usually end up here.
Next, #4, Chikushōdō or the realm of animals. This might not sound so bad if you’re born as a poodle to a rich doting influencer, you don’t get a say in what animal you return as, blobfish.
#5, Gakidō. Hungry ghosts. This one sucks pretty bad. Beings here are tormented by an insatiable, ravenous hunger and thirst that can never be quenched. They’re often depicted as ghastly creatures with distended bellies but with tiny mouths and throats like straws.
#6 Jigokudō. Hell. The lowest realm and the worst. There are hot hells and cold hells and I talk about them in episodes 21 and 22. So many hells I had to do two episodes on them. People of old had the wildest imaginations.
So if you *have* to be reborn, you want to aim for human again. Then at least you have a fighting chance. But keep in mind that ultimately, your goal should be to get yourself off this karmic wheel called samsara. To not be born into any of those realms, just be free of it, and that’s what satori or nirvana, enlightenment. And why people meditate and shed their attachments, etc. etc. If you’re so inclined you might want to get on that. There’s still time.
Now. Listen to the brilliance of this mythology and where some hope can be found. There are still three kings of hell left, right?
So even if the judgement has been passed down and it’s decided that you’re to be reborn as a, oh, I don’t know, a botfly or sea cucumber. There is an appeals phase. I kid you not.
The living, your family, friends and loved ones, who you were so sweet and tender with while alive, still have the power to help you.
On the 100th day after your passing, there is another memorial called the Hyakkunichi — one hundred days. All the merit from the prayers offered during that ceremony is sent to you and a king called Byōdō-O will review your case. If you have accumulated enough merit, your suffering can be lessoned.
Then on the first anniversary of your demise, is the Isshūki, again this is a major event just like the Hyakkunichi, observed among — dare I say — all families in Japan who have lost someone. This is when Hell King Toshi-O presides and conducts yet another review of your earned merit. Once again, merit passed on from those loved ones and certainly a hired monk who recites sutras during the memorial, can add up and earn you a more favorable position.
Then next you have the san-kaiki (３回忌), which means third anniversary following the death, but actually happens on the second year. Even my Japanese friends find this funny and strange. Where you get another chance. If your family really loves you, you could go from mealworm to CEO. Maybe.
These memorials are important events. They’re called hōji or hōyō. And they often happen in temples or at the family’s home in front of the butsudan—family altar. I’ve been to quite a few and the preparation is just incredible and detailed and mind boggling. From decorations, to certain types of food or offerings that must be put out certain ways at certain times. Freshly cooked rice, water, sake, baskets of immaculate looking fruits, boxes of traditional sweets, and lots of flowers.
A monk (or monks for extra positive karma) are hired to recite sutras, bells are rung, incense is offered, lots of friends and family come to pay their respects. The grave of the deceased is also visited and cleaned, more offerings, flowers, and prayers offered here, too.
Okay. Now, let’s back up one second though and talk about Enma Daiō. The main King of Hell. You’ll get some version of this with the other kings, but since Enma-sama is the biggie, let’s set up how this will go down.
He’s the most important of the King’s of Hell and if we’re still following the “this is a court case” metaphor, then the first four kings are like preliminary judges or grand juries. They examine specific categories of sin (killing, stealing, lust, lying).
Enma Daio is the chief justice. He looks at everything gathered and makes his recommendation which carries the most weight. The last judge is the sentencing judge (Taizan) and hands down the final verdict. So by walking you through Enma-sama’s role, you can kind of get the gist (knowing yourself the way you do) where you’ll end up.
So once again you are being dragged by Gozu and Mezu. This time you’re shoved into this cavernous hall. Artwork through the ages depicts different versions, but imagine walls of raw unhewn rock. There’s an unseen ceiling, above you just disappears into darkness. Light comes from torches placed here and there and, of course, the fires of hell that flare up from the cracks in the stone floor.
The air is thick with the scent of smoke, sulphur, something metallic that could be blood or fear itself. Before you is an enormous empty throne. On one side sits Shiroku — whose task is the Recorder. He has the master scroll of your completed life in front of him. On the other side looms Shimyō whose job is to write down the judgement that is coming.
You’ll also see ox head demon and horse head demon have taken up heavy weapons and flank the throne. They stand motionless but are ready to act if you get squirrelly.
Oh, and there’s another demon is holding a large mirror that will be important in a minute.
Thunder rumbles and in stomps Enma-sama himself. He is massive. You come up to about his knee. His skin is deep red. He wears a furious expression with angry bulging eyes, mouth open showing his teeth, like he’s saying arrrgh! He sports a big black beard and is wearing a traditional black formal hat of a high ranking Chinese court official that has the character O on it. King! In case you weren’t sure.
His robes are gorgeous heavy silk and depending on the day he could be wearing his cobalt blue or crimson or green or gold ones. They are often embroidered with fancy designs, flames, dragons and other fearsome creatures. When he sits down on his throne they spill over onto the floor magnificently.
He could be holding one of several things. Usually he’ll have his shaku or a kind of sceptre or baton that he might bang down to call the court to order.
You might notice that strangely there’s a pair of iron pliers on the table beside him. I wonder what’s those are about.
So the King of Hell is sitting there his gaze burning into you and he calls the court to order. Shiroku is commanded to stand up and unscroll the long scroll and start reading a list of all the discretions you made in life. This will be long and meticulous and humiliating. He will leave nothing out.
“On the third day of the sixth month of your ninth year you stole a piece of cake from the fridge and blamed it on your little brother.” Things like that.
But also included are broken promises, selfish thoughts, and casual lies. And you’re forced to stand there and listen to them all. Then comes another genius bit of the story. Remember the oni that was holding onto a mirror? Well, that mirror is called Jōhari no Kagami, Cleansing Crystal Mirror or Mirror of Karma. It’s full length and he turns it toward you.
Here gazing at your reflection, you not only see your past, but you feel it. You feel the pain and heartache and despair that you caused anyone. You’re forced to experience the consequences of your actions from the perspective of those you wronged. And then you’ll feel genuinely a torrent of guilt, shame, and empathy. I’m sure you’re fine, but those tyrants running around…oof.
Here Enma Daio asks: What say you?
You may be tempted to defend yourself and make excuses. Don’t do it. Remember those pliers? Tell the truth. Acknowledge your misdeeds and feel the remorse. Enma-sama is very well known for pulling out the tongues of people who lie.
Now I’m confident that you’ll get reborn as a really kind human who has the power and passion to help others. But other people, they get to experience the creativity and mercilessness and poetic justice of Buddhist hells.
Like, murderers or those who take any life at all. They get to experience a kind of Batall Royale or Hunger Games situation where they’re armed with iron claws and have to tear each other to pieces. Then, an oni shouts Revive! Revive! and a cold wind blows and all the bodies are made whole again. And the fight begins…over and over.
Where anyone who has lusted over someone will continually meet the most alluring person ever, someone totally irresistible, who is like, come on give me a hug! But when they run up to do so, burning pillars, or razor blades, or both.
Or how about those who have ever watered down sake, or drink too much? They get to drink a never ending stream of molten copper, which fills them up and pours out of all their orifices. They’re given a moment to recover and then have it all happen again, and again, forever and ever.
So like I said, you’re good, you’re fine. Surely you’ve never swatted a mosquito, or lusted after anyone or god forbid watered down some sake.
Thank you all for listening.
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